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Mortgage 101 Jan 7, 2026 7 min read

How to Check and Fix Your Credit Report in Canada (2026)

A 2026 step-by-step guide to pulling your free Equifax and TransUnion reports, reading them, spotting errors, and disputing mistakes — before they cost you a mortgage approval.

At a glance

A 2026 step-by-step guide to pulling your free Equifax and TransUnion reports, reading them, spotting errors, and disputing mistakes — before they cost you a mortgage approval.

7 min read · Reviewed by the editorial team · Last reviewed June 2026

Your credit report is the single document a lender leans on hardest when you apply for a mortgage in 2026 — and it's also the one most Canadians have never actually read. Errors are surprisingly common, and a single reporting mistake can drop your score, raise your rate, or sink an approval. The good news: you can check both of Canada's credit bureaus for free, and you have a legal right to dispute anything that's wrong. Here's exactly how to do it.

The short answer

In Canada you can get your credit report free from both Equifax and TransUnion, and checking your own report is a soft inquiry that never lowers your score. Read each report for wrong balances, accounts that aren't yours, duplicate debts, and outdated negatives, then file a dispute with the bureau (and the lender) to fix errors. Most negative items fall off automatically after about six to seven years. Do this two to three months before applying for a mortgage so you have time to correct anything.

How to get your credit report for free

There are two national credit bureaus in Canada — Equifax and TransUnion — and a lender may pull from either one, so you should check both. Each bureau maintains its own file, and the data doesn't always match, which is one reason errors slip through. Pulling your own report is always a soft inquiry: it is recorded for your eyes only and has zero effect on your score, no matter how often you check.

Your free options

  • Free online consumer reports. Both Equifax and TransUnion let you create an account and view your report online at no cost. This is the fastest route in 2026.
  • Free report by mail or phone. You are legally entitled to request a free copy of your credit file ("consumer disclosure") from each bureau. You'll verify your identity and the report is mailed to you.
  • Free monitoring apps. Many Canadian banking and fintech apps surface a credit score and a simplified report pulled from one of the bureaus. These are useful for tracking trends but are not a substitute for reading the full file from each bureau.

A note on scores versus reports: a free app score is an estimate and may differ from the score a mortgage lender sees. What matters for a mortgage is the underlying report — the accounts, balances, and history. If you want to understand how the number itself is built and used, see our guides on the credit score you need for a mortgage and the differences between Equifax vs. TransUnion.

How to read your credit report

A Canadian credit report is organized into a few standard sections. Once you know what each one means, a report that looks like a wall of codes becomes easy to audit.

SectionWhat it showsWhat to check for
Personal informationName, date of birth, current and former addresses, employersMisspellings, addresses you never lived at, identity mix-ups
Credit accounts (tradelines)Credit cards, loans, lines of credit, mortgages — with limits, balances, and payment historyWrong balances, accounts you didn't open, closed accounts shown as open
InquiriesWho pulled your report and whenHard inquiries you didn't authorize
Public records / collectionsJudgments, bankruptcies, consumer proposals, debts sent to collectionsItems already paid, items past the reporting window, items that aren't yours

Understanding the R1–R9 ratings

Each tradeline carries a rating that describes how you've handled it. For revolving and instalment credit you'll usually see an "R" code (the letter can vary by account type — I for instalment, O for open, M for mortgage — but the number means the same thing):

  • R1 — paid as agreed, within 30 days of the due date. This is what you want on every line.
  • R2 — paid 30–60 days late.
  • R3 — paid 60–90 days late.
  • R4 / R5 — 90–120 days and 120+ days late.
  • R7 — included in a consumer proposal or other arrangement.
  • R8 — repossession.
  • R9 — bad debt, placed for collection, or written off. This is the most damaging rating.

Two numbers next to that rating drive your score the most: your payment history and your credit utilization (how much of each limit you're using). Carrying balances near your limit hurts even when you pay on time. If you're working to lift your score before applying, our guide on how to improve your credit score walks through the levers in order of impact.

Common errors to look for

Credit-reporting errors are more frequent than most people expect, and not all of them are obvious. When you audit your report, hunt specifically for these:

  • Accounts that aren't yours — a sign of mixed files (same or similar name) or identity theft.
  • Wrong balances or limits — a paid-off card still showing a balance, or a limit reported lower than it really is, which inflates your utilization.
  • Duplicate debts — the same collection or loan listed twice, doubling its apparent weight.
  • Outdated negatives — a late payment, collection, or bankruptcy still showing after it should have aged off.
  • Closed accounts shown as open, or accounts you closed still reporting activity.
  • Unauthorized hard inquiries — pulls you never agreed to.
  • Stale personal data — old employer or address links that connect you to someone else's file.

Even a small error matters for a mortgage. A misreported limit can push your utilization up and shave points off your score; an old collection that should have aged off can be the difference between an A-lender approval and being routed to a bad-credit mortgage at a higher rate.

The step-by-step dispute process

You have the right to dispute anything inaccurate, and it costs nothing. The bureau must investigate, usually within about 30 days, and either correct, verify, or remove the item.

Step 1 — Gather evidence

Pull both reports and circle every item you believe is wrong. Collect proof: a statement showing a zero balance, a paid-in-full letter from a collection agency, a bank confirmation that an account is closed. The stronger your documentation, the faster the fix.

Step 2 — File the dispute with the bureau

Each bureau handles its own file, so dispute with whichever bureau shows the error — or both if it appears on both:

  • Equifax Canada — file online through your myEquifax account, or by mail/phone using the dispute form. You'll identify the item and attach your evidence.
  • TransUnion Canada — file online through your consumer portal, or by mail/phone. Same idea: flag the specific tradeline, inquiry, or record and supply proof.

Step 3 — Contact the creditor too

The bureau reports what the lender or collection agency sends it. For a faster, more durable fix, also contact the creditor directly and ask them to correct what they're reporting. When the source updates, the bureau follows.

Step 4 — Follow up and confirm

The bureau will send the result of its investigation. If the item is corrected, pull a fresh report to confirm the change stuck on both bureaus. If your dispute is denied but you still disagree, you can add a brief consumer statement to your file explaining your side, which lenders will see.

How long items stay, fraud alerts, and why it matters for a mortgage

How long negative items remain

Most negative information ages off automatically. As a general rule in Canada, negative items remain for about six to seven years from the date of last activity or filing — late payments, collections, judgments, and most bankruptcies sit in that window (a second bankruptcy can stay longer). The exact period can vary by province and item type. You don't pay to remove accurate, aged items — they drop off on their own — so be wary of any "credit repair" outfit promising to erase legitimate history for a fee.

Fraud alerts and identity theft

If you spot accounts you never opened or suspect your information was stolen, place a fraud alert with both bureaus. An alert tells lenders to take extra steps to verify your identity before extending credit, which slows down anyone trying to open accounts in your name. You can also request a credit freeze where available. Pair this with disputing the fraudulent tradelines so they're removed from your file.

Why check before you apply for a mortgage

A mortgage lender prices your loan partly on your credit profile, and they pull a hard report when you apply. If there's an error dragging your score down, you want it fixed before that pull — not discovered during underwriting when the clock is running on a purchase. Give yourself two to three months of runway: enough time to dispute an error and let the correction post, and enough time to pay down balances if utilization is hurting you. Walking in with a clean, accurate report is one of the cheapest ways to earn a better rate.

Frequently asked questions

Does checking my own credit report lower my score?

No. When you pull your own report it's recorded as a soft inquiry, which is visible only to you and has no effect on your score. You can check as often as you like. Only hard inquiries from lenders when you apply for credit can affect your score.

Is it really free to get my credit report in Canada?

Yes. You're entitled to a free copy of your credit file from both Equifax and TransUnion, available online, by phone, or by mail. Many banking and fintech apps also show a free score and simplified report. The full report from each bureau is what you want for a mortgage check.

How long does a dispute take to resolve?

The bureau generally completes its investigation within about 30 days. If the creditor confirms the error and updates its reporting, the correction posts after that. Contacting the creditor directly, in addition to the bureau, can speed things up.

How long do late payments and collections stay on my report?

As a general rule, negative items remain for roughly six to seven years from the date of last activity, then drop off automatically. You can't pay to remove accurate aged items — and you don't need to, because they fall off on their own.

Should I check Equifax, TransUnion, or both?

Both. The bureaus keep separate files and a lender may pull either one, so an error on the bureau you didn't check could still hurt your application. Our Equifax vs. TransUnion guide explains how they differ.

Cleaning up your report before a mortgage application? Ask Maya for a quick read on where you stand, or talk to an advisor — we'll help you interpret your report, plan the right fixes, and time your application so your credit is working for you, not against you.

MS
Written by
Mortgage Squad Advisors Editorial Team
Licensed Mortgage Advisors · Reviewed under the Principal Broker

Mortgage content produced by Mortgage Squad Advisors' team of FSRA-licensed mortgage advisors and reviewed under the supervision of the brokerage's Principal Broker (FSRA Brokerage #13737) before publication.

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