Roll high-rate debts into your mortgage.
Refinance to consolidate cards, lines, and loans. Free up monthly cashflow, and see what consolidation costs over its full life before you decide. Check the math before deciding.
Fact-checked by Surrayya Afzal, Principal Broker, FSRA #M14001433· Last reviewed October 2026 · Reviewed monthly
Rolling high-interest debts — credit cards at 20%+, lines, and loans — into your mortgage at a much lower rate can reduce your monthly payment; lifetime interest may increase. The trade-offs: you secure that debt against your home and stretch it over a longer term, so discipline matters. Enter your debts to see the new single payment and the lifetime-interest trade-off.
Your inputs
The default rate is an illustrative modelling input as of October 2026, not a quote. Enter your actual refinance rate.
Lifetime estimates assume unchanged rates and fixed monthly payments until payoff. Refinance costs are added to the debt portion; the existing mortgage is excluded.
Before vs. after — monthly payments
Your stack of separate payments today vs. one consolidated mortgage payment.
Lifetime cost of the consolidated debt
Total interest vs. principal once your debts are rolled into a 25-year mortgage at 4.14%
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Lower payment, longer runway — model the lifetime cost
Consolidating works because mortgage money is cheap relative to credit cards and unsecured lines. Swapping 19.99% revolving debt for a sub-5% mortgage rate can slash the interest you pay each year and free up real monthly cashflow — the before/after bars above show exactly how much.
The trade-off no one mentions
The catch is amortization. A balance you might have cleared in two or three years now rides on a 25-year mortgage. Even at a far lower rate, stretching it that long can mean more total interest on that slice over its life. That’s why the donut above models lifetime cost, not just the monthly drop — the smart play is often to consolidate for the cashflow relief, then apply prepayment privileges to clear the consolidated portion fast.
Two guardrails we put on every file: keep the new financing under 80% of your home’s value, and close or reduce the unsecured limits you just paid off so the debt doesn’t rebuild. If you don’t have the equity to refinance, a HELOC or a full refinance comparison is the next step.
Amortization schedule
How your balance falls — and how the interest/principal split shifts — over 25 years.
| Year | Principal paid | Interest paid | Balance |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | $890 | $1,543 | $37,110 |
| 2 | $927 | $1,506 | $36,182 |
| 3 | $966 | $1,467 | $35,216 |
| 4 | $1,007 | $1,427 | $34,209 |
| 5 | $1,049 | $1,385 | $33,161 |
| 6 | $1,093 | $1,341 | $32,068 |
| 7 | $1,138 | $1,295 | $30,930 |
| 8 | $1,186 | $1,247 | $29,744 |
| 9 | $1,236 | $1,198 | $28,508 |
| 10 | $1,287 | $1,146 | $27,221 |
How much can debt consolidation actually save me?
What's the catch with debt consolidation refinancing?
Will my mortgage payment go up after consolidation?
Doesn't stretching debt over 25 years cost more in the long run?
Can I consolidate CRA tax debt into a mortgage?
How much equity do I need to consolidate into my mortgage?
What's the difference between consolidating via refi vs HELOC?
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